Walk into any Filipino bakery, and you’ll find them displayed proudly behind glass cases: ensaymadas—golden, spiral-shaped brioche rolls topped with a generous shower of grated cheese. These beloved pastries are a testament to the Philippines’ rich culinary heritage, blending Spanish colonial influence with local flavors.
Light as a feather, rich with butter, and perfectly balanced with sweet and salty notes, ensaymada is the ultimate comfort food for breakfast or merienda (afternoon snack). The dough, enriched with egg yolks and butter, bakes into soft, pillowy layers that pull apart in feathery strands.
Topped with a buttery sugar glaze and crowned with salty aged cheese, each bite is a perfect harmony of flavors. While they require patience and care, these homemade ensaymadas reward you with results that far surpass anything from a bakery.
Instructions
Activate the Yeast
In a small bowl, combine the warm milk, warm water, and 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Sprinkle the yeast over the surface and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes until foamy. If the mixture doesn’t foam, the yeast may be inactive—start over with fresh yeast.
Make the Dough
In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine 3½ cups of flour, remaining sugar, and salt. Add the yeast mixture, egg yolks, and vanilla. Mix on low until a shaggy dough forms. Gradually add the softened butter, one cube at a time, mixing until incorporated.
Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, adding more flour as needed, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky but not sticky. The dough should pass the “windowpane test”—stretch a small piece thinly without tearing.
First Rise
Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl, turning to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1½ to 2 hours, until doubled in size.
Roll and Spread
Punch down the dough and turn onto a lightly floured surface. Roll into a large rectangle, about 12×18 inches and ¼-inch thick. Spread the softened butter evenly over the dough, leaving a ½-inch border along one long edge. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the butter.
Roll and Cut
Starting from the long edge opposite the border, roll the dough tightly into a log, like a jelly roll. Pinch the seam to seal. Using a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut the log into 8 to 10 equal pieces, each about 1½ to 2 inches wide.
Shape the Ensaymadas
Take one piece and place it cut-side down on the work surface. Gently press down and coil the piece into a spiral, tucking the end underneath. Alternatively, for traditional ensaymada shape, hold one cut end and coil the strip around itself, forming a round bun with a visible spiral. Place each shaped ensaymada on a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving space between for rising.
Second Rise
Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a clean towel. Let rise for 45 to 60 minutes, until puffed and nearly doubled in size.
Bake
Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Bake the ensaymadas for 15 to 18 minutes, until golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 190°F (88°C). Rotate the baking sheet halfway through for even browning.
Top and Serve
Remove from oven and brush with softened butter while still warm. Generously top with grated cheese and sprinkle with sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature.
These Cheese Ensaymadas bring the warmth and comfort of Filipino baking to your kitchen—a labor of love that yields truly unforgettable results.
